I want to start this post off by saying that if you experience a lot of calligraphy ink problems, there may be a simple culprit. The first may be that you have not prepared your nib for use; or you might be holding your pen too upright. If you have addressed those issues and continue to experience problems, then this post will be helpful! In it, we’ll go through four common calligraphy ink problems and how to fix them.
1. Ink Skips on Upstrokes
Depending on your calligraphy ink’s ingredients, it may have a tendency to be thick. While thick ink can be nice because it’s opaque, it also can be temperamental. For example, Dr. Ph. Martin’s Bleedproof White Ink generally arrives looking like this:
See that big glob on the upper right 1/4 of the rim? That’s paint that has separated from the watery part of the ink. Try to use a super thick ink as-is, and you’ll get upstrokes that are barely there (and not in a good way). In the photo below, you can see the result of trying to use too-thick ink to write calligraphy. Notice that a few of the upstrokes and horizontal strokes just look like a series of tiny dots!
To fix that, simply stir some water into the ink! I usually start with 1/4 teaspoon and keep adding until the ink has a smoother consistency. You should stir white and metallic inks to the consistency of cream. Go a bit thinner with colored inks and black inks — you want them to be more watery. I officially recommend that you dilute the ink with distilled water, but I always just use water from the tap.
Once you stir in water, the ink should write like a dream! As a side note, if you add too much water and the ink is no longer opaque, that’s an easy fix. Just let the ink sit overnight with the cap off, and a lot of the water will evaporate out!
2. The Ink Bleeds
There’s nothing more frustrating than writing a beautiful letter, then watching the ink blossom out into a fuzzy mess! As far as calligraphy ink problems go, bleeding ink is something nearly all beginners experience. The problem is nearly always the paper and ink combination. If the ink is thin and the paper tends to absorb liquid quickly, then you’ll get bleed! A lot of times, the problem can be fixed by switching out your paper. Instead of cheap printer paper, for example, use 32# laserjet paper. Sometimes, though, you absolutely have to write on a certain paper (for commissioned wedding calligraphy, etc.). In cases like those, add some gum arabic to the ink!
It doesn’t matter whether you use liquid or powder. Just stir some into to the ink a little bit at a time (increments of 1/8 tsp. are good), and continually test the ink by writing with it. Gum arabic is a thickener, so eventually your ink will become too thick to bleed — but not so thick that you can’t write with it!
If you don’t have gum arabic, you can always spray a fixative on your paper and try writing on the paper then. A fixative will lessen the absorbency of your paper, which helps you to write on it! That said, the compromised surface doesn’t allow for super crisp strokes, so I do recommend using gum arabic instead of the fixative if you have a choice.
3. Ink Globs on Downstrokes
So, you’ve just dipped your nib in ink, and you start writing your calligraphy. Instead of a nice, smooth downstroke, however, all of your ink dumps onto the paper as you pull your pen down! What’s up with that?
If all your ink has a tendency to rush down onto the paper, you may have too much ink on your nib. Every time after you dip your nib in ink, give the nib one firm shake over your cleaning water. Doing this should encourage any excess ink to drip off! If that doesn’t help, try slowing down your pace. If you apply pressure to the nib very quickly and try to make a fast downstroke, the tines of the nib tend to splay apart and deposit everything they have onto the paper. Writing slowly and consistently should fix the problem!
4. Ink Won’t Flow from the Nib
If you’ve ever tried using a flexible nib like the Brause EF66 or the Brause Rose, then you probably can relate to this issue. You dip your nib in ink, then put the nib on the paper and attempt to write … but nothing happens!
If you experience this problem, try gently wiggling the nib on the paper exactly where you want to start writing. Don’t apply so much pressure that the tines splay apart! The goal is to get one dot of ink to appear on the paper. Once that one dot of ink appears, you will be able to write starting at that dot!
If that doesn’t make sense, then I would suggest watching this video from the Getting to Know the Brause Rose Nib blog post. At 2:00, I start to explain the concept behind getting a dot down on the paper.
I know that there are other common calligraphy problems besides those detailed in this post. So — if you have any questions about them, please feel free to comment! I’ll be glad to offer any feedback that I can or point you in the direction of a blog post that can help. 🙂 Thanks very much for reading TPK, and enjoy the rest of your day!
Warmly,
Hi, I just added water to Ph Martin’s bleed proof white but I am noticing cracks when it dries and lots of air bubbles! Please help as it looks lovely except for those things.
I have Dr. Ph Martin Bombay India inks in the ink proper containers. I am wondering if there is a way to keep the toppers lasting longer or what is the proper way to close them—– Pinch first and close or squeeze all the ink out, release and then close?
Hi Heather! I always transfer the inks to dip pen-friendly containers. 🙂 I’d recommend doing that! But, if you want to store them in their original containers, I would squeeze all the ink out first, then put the topper back on.
Hi Lindsey!
This was helpful! Thank you for this blog post!
I have run into an encounter with Dr. Ph Martin’s Bleed proof white ink, where after I watered it down it just flows off my nibs, as if they were straight-out-of-the-package/still covered in the manufacturer’s oils. Have you encountered this before? If so, do you have any tips? Thanks so much!
Hi Evie! It sounds like there’s a bit too much water in it. That’s okay! Just let it sit with the lid off for a few (maybe 30) minutes. Alternatively, if you didn’t mix the entire contents of ink with water, incorporate a little bit more ink in there. You may find this article to be helpful!
I have a very texturized gold envelope that I am lettering – the client wats it black black –
I find my Sumi black just isn’t drying as black as I want it – any suggestions
Today, I bought a Zebra G nibs. When I tried writing it, although it produces thick strokes, the nib does not produce thin strokes. 🙁 I am new to dip pens so this is frustrating. What to do?
Hi Adrian! Calligraphy just takes practice — it’s unfortunately not something that’s easy to master in a day. 🙂 Try starting by reading The Beginner’s Guide to Modern Calligraphy! If you can take the Beginner’s Modern Calligraphy Online Course, that would be ideal.
Thank you for the ever-informative posts!
I have a question regarding ink after it dries. I find that my black ink always smudges and transfers if pieces are stacked (e.g. envelopes, cards), even after letting them dry for over 24 hours. This happens with both Ziller Soot Black and Kuretake Sumi 60 (so it’s not an issue of waterproof-ness), and is especially a problem when shipping pieces. Has anyone else experienced this?
Hey there! When I do envelope jobs, I always cut pieces of regular printer paper to the size of the envelopes (using a paper cutter), and put them in between the envelopes. That way, if the ink rubs off, it does so on a piece of paper that doesn’t matter. 🙂 You also might try spraying your envelopes with a matte fixative (as per this blog post)!
Hey Lindsey, I find your blog extremely helpful. I am facing problems with PH Martin’s Gold ink and it seems that it is drying too fast. I have to dip the pen again and again due to this and shake the bottle each time since the gold color sinks to the bottom. Am I doing something wrong or is this common?
Thanks
Garima
Hi Garima! That’s common. 🙂 I like the Dr. Ph. Martin’s gold because it’s really easy to dip your nib in and use, but I think in the long run, Finetec is easier to control because you dictate the amount of water in it and you can always make sure it’s mixed well.
Hi Lindsey,
I’ve been using the Nikko G nibs but frequently come across this problem where my first stroke after dipping in ink and shaking off the excess, always comes out as a bead of ink on the page, and then two lines from the tines going down. Doing any calligraphy means that I always have to do “pre strokes” multiple times on a different piece of paper and I don’t draw on my calligraphy piece until I’ve got a proper line on my practice paper. I also seem to have to re-dip fairly often. I’ve perused almost every single troubleshooting post and advice post on your blog and have tried everything that I can think of (potato, alcohol, cleaning the nib with water every minute or so, changing the nib to a new one, changing the angle that I write, dot method, watering down my ink etc., but the problem still persists. I have pages and pages of “practice strokes” with this weird little bead and two tine lines, every time I try to do any calligraphy. Please help!
Also, I wanted to ask if gum arabic works for india inks as I read somewhere on the internet that although it works for sumi inks that it can become a gummy/tacky mess when used with india ink.
Thank you!
Hi Ally – I’m not Lindsey but hopefully I can help since I’ve had this issue before! It sounds like the ink is emptying out of the nib too quickly so it might be too watery (and its surface tension too high). I also find this issue occurs more with my new nibs; older nibs are more “used” to holding onto ink properly, so I would try sticking with one nib for a while to see if it improves.
After cleaning my rapidograph pen I still have a nugget of dried ink in the ink barrel that I cannot get out or break up. Please help!
Thanks
Cheryl
Hi, Lindsey – I just wanted to let you know that your blog is my bible and go-to reference for everything calligraphy. Thank you for being such an amazing resource and such an inspiration.
I have been practicing for over a year and trying to improve my lettering and really enjoying the process. A problem that I am having lately is how to know if the paper/card stock of a store bought greeting card will work with my ink/nibs. Without fail, I practice the greeting on my practice paper and when I think it looks acceptable, I put ink and nib to paper and I am always disappointed that there is minor bleeding or my thin strokes morph into thicker strokes so that there isn’t a differentiation in my letters by the time the ink dries. I am doubly sad because the cards are fairly pricey. Can I coat the card with something first? Or maybe I’ll just have to make my own cards…
Your own cards are always a safe bet! But — you know, I’d try writing on store-bought cards with gouache vs. ink. Gouache tends not to spiderweb out like ink does. If you are in love with a certain type of ink, try adding gum arabic to it or spraying the card with matte fixative (as explained in points 2 and 3 of this fairly vintage blog post)!
Hello,
I just bought a new Nikko G nib (like a few days ago) and am using the Sumi ink, but for some reason my nib is running out of ink very quickly, like after every word. It was not doing this when I first started using the nib, but now it is. Could it be that my nib is not clean enough? Or that I am dipping incorrectly? Or is it normal for the nib to need more ink every few words?
Thank you!
Loving all your blogposts. I am new to calligraphy and its you who has been motivating me to continue. This particular blog was much awaited.
Thanks,
Nidhi
I’m so glad that this post was of use to you, Nidhi! Thanks very much!
Hi Lindsey, your post is interesting and help me to solve the problem of the bleeding ink, now I need your advice on what to do when I have tried all the things to prepare my brand new nibs and still the ink just slips from the nibs, it’s not exactly the third problem in your post cause the ink just falls entirely to the paper. I am desperate cause I’ve tried the potato, the toothpaste, even alcohol, oxygenated water, soap dish and nothing seems to work 🙁
Thank you.
Hi Lulu! Hmm … it sounds like the ink may be a little too thin? You might try thickening it up by either leaving the lid off overnight (so water can evaporate out) or adding some gum arabic!
Hi Lindsey! Thanks a lot for your post, it’s super informative!!
Are you familiar with the Kuretake Gold Mica ink? I have trouble writing upstrokes with it. I tried with different nibs but no luck.. It’s like upstorkes are either barely visible or the ink doesn’t flow from the nib at all! I don’t know what to do 🙁 Would you have any tips for this?
Hi Kasia!
Unfortunately, I have never used that specific ink. Without being familiar with it, two tips would be:
1. Make sure the ink is completely mixed (maybe some sparkles have settled to the bottom)? Use a coffee stirrer/chop stick/ or tooth pick to do so.
2. Try diluting the ink with some water. Maybe too much water has evaporated out, which makes it difficult to get the ink to flow on upstrokes.
I hope this helps!
Is there anything I can do to fix the problem of ink that remains tacky on the page long after it should have dried? Having FINISHED a project, I discovered that the ink stayed tacky, and I hate to redo the whole thing if there’s a simple way to fix it. Thanks. Great information on your site!
Hi Holly! I would try spraying a finish on it or rubbing on Microglaze. Basically, you would do the same thing that you might do if you wanted to waterproof the ink/project. (You can find instructions here!)
What a wonderfully informative post! Could you tell me where to purchase those tiny containers with the black screw tops? They are in the first photo accompanying this post on the right hand side. They look quite handy in storing ink in smaller quantities. Thank much, Jillian
They are awesome! I get them from Paper & Ink Arts, and I notice that they sell them with white lids instead of black lids now. 🙂 You can find them by clicking here.
Thank you for this informative article. Are there any archival issues if using gum arabic? Would it eventually eat or yellow the paper?
Hi there! I am not sure, so I did some research. According to this article by Joi at Bien Fait Calligraphy: “Liquid gum arabic will darken over time, so if you are doing any archival work, it is suggested that you use the powder version.”
Thank you, Lindsey. This is a very valuable article.
I slowly getting all my supply together. Decided to start with a blush markers first and already purchased your video course – Kaitlin Style.
I do like to write with fountain pens as well. Could you please explain if I can use the same ink in both fountain- and dip- pens?
Thank you.
~ Iryna
Hi Iryna! You can use the same ink for both fountain and dip pens — however, you’ll need to add some gum arabic to the ink before you use it for dip pens. Fountain pen ink is a little bit thin for dip pens, but adding the gum arabic will thicken it up enough to comfortably use!
HI Lindsey!
I am working through your Kaitlin worksheets after brushing up on my handwriting with a Spencerian copybook and some brush lettering practice. I have a problem with my ink coming off too fast after I dip it. I am brushing off as much excess as I can and trying not to rush but it pretty much goes like this: dip pen; splotchy letter with zero possibility of a thin up stroke; perfect letter; pen runs out of ink in the middle of third letter. I am dipping my pen constantly and the first letter is always splotchy. Help! This happens on any nib (I have the nikkoG as well as Brause 76 and others.)
Hi Jeree!
It sounds like the problem is one (or both) of two things! First, make sure that both tines of the pen are evenly on the paper at all times. You want to ensure that you aren’t putting more pressure on the right tine vs. the left or vice-versa. If you’re certain you’re doing that correctly, then look at the angle you are holding the pen at. If you’re holding it too upright, then ink has a tendency to rush down! Try making sure you are maintaining a 45 degree angle between the pen and your paper.
Very helpful tips. I’ve often tried to address greeting cards and the ink always bleeds and I end up trying to find another envelope that will work. I didn’t’ know about gum arabic.
This is just what I needed to know now. Thank you so much!
Another wonderful post Lindsey!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I did have one question…what should we use to do the actual mixing of the ink? A wooden stick? The end of the pointed pen? Does it really matter and I’m jut over thinking this? LOL!
Thanks
Great question! I use a chopstick — something that I brought home from a restaurant one day. 🙂
I love your site and really enjoy your emails. Thanks so much for this post with near perfect timing. I did my mother’s day envelopes last night. You know that single envelope that comes with a card from Hallmark. I was so pleased there were no major mistakes but my heart sank as I gazed at the envelope and watched the ink bleed into the paper. Now I have a hideous label, which was quite difficult to write on, over the address. I will definitely be buying gum arabic in the very near future.
Is there a rough rule of thumb for how much gum arabic one should add per amount of ink?
Oh no! I know the ink bleed on those are a bit delayed, so it had to be dismaying to see that. 🙁 As far as the rough rule of thumb — not really! I don’t think you’ll end up adding more than 2 TBSP … but keep adding and testing, adding and testing.
I’m definitely buying some gum arabic now! It’s a great tip to know! Thanks Lindsey.
Thanks so much for sharing all of these tips. I have problems with some paper so that’s been my biggest challenge. I usually buy my paper and blank cards at Michael’s/Hobby Lobby and I’ve always debated whether it’s worth it to buy from places like Paper Source instead. Do you find a brand of paper that is your go to? Another question- do you mix your inks in a smaller/separate container? Or do you just use the ink as it comes?
Your work is beautiful and I love how much information you share with newbie calligraphers. 🙂
Hi Lisa! DEFINITELY worth it to buy from a place like Paper Source. I used to buy a Michael’s/Hobby Lobby, too, and thought the issue was the ink. It wasn’t! 🙂 Just give one pack of Paper Source envelopes a try … you’ll get converted immediately. As far as your second question, it depends on the ink. If the ink comes in a dip pen-friendly container, then I won’t transfer it. But if it doesn’t, then I do transfer it. I’d say I transfer about 70% of my inks to a different container.
So helpful! I wish I knew about Gum Arabic before! I’m 3/4 of the way through addressing my wedding invite envelopes on kraft paper (never again) using bleedproof white because my india ink was spidering. I’ll have to try the Gum Arabic. Thanks for the helpful tips!!
Ma’am, could you please write a blog entry about “Is it okay to cheat while hand lettering? If yes, how?”
Using the Hunts 102 and 107 for illustrations and the 102 is super flexible and like the Brausse, it’s very fickle. The ink just won’t flow so I found dipping it into water BEFORE ink helped the ink flow better off. Still not perfect but an improvement.
Still trying to figure out how to get the ink not to slide off the front of either tho. All the cleaning methods, check. It still slides off the front like it has oils on it. Using Sumi ink.
That’s a great tip! Also try the Nikko G for illustration, if you have a chance. 🙂 As far as the Brause EF66 goes, try shaking off the ink into your art water before you write. That may help to get some of the excess off!