From quick sketches to layered shading, pencils are capable of more than most people realize. Today, you’ll learn about the main types and how to draw a realistic pencil sphere to practice your technique.
There’s a pencil for every kind of creative moment, and you probably already have a few favorites. While pencils might seem simple, they’ve been through centuries of reinvention. In today’s article, we’ll take a closer look at the different types of pencils (mechanical, wooden, and graded graphite) and when you might want to use each one. Along the way, you’ll find a few tutorials and suggestions to help you harness the power of this supply.
A Quick History of the Pencil
The story of the modern pencil began in the 1500s, when a large deposit of graphite was discovered in northern England. The graphite was solid, and people quickly realized it was useful for making marks on paper. Since graphite wasn’t fully understood at the time, it was mistaken for lead and called plumbago (which means “lead ore” in Latin).
We still call the dark core of a pencil “lead,” though it has never actually contained any.
At first, graphite sticks were wrapped in string or sheepskin for stability. Eventually, they were encased in wood. The method that’s used today (carving two wooden halves, inserting a graphite stick, and gluing the halves together) has been used since the 16th century. England maintained a near-monopoly on high-quality pencils until the 18th century, when a major breakthrough came from France. There, a man named Nicolas-Jacques Conté developed a method for mixing powdered graphite with clay and firing it in a kiln. This not only eliminated the need for rare solid graphite, but also allowed pencil makers to control the hardness of the core. This clay-graphite blend is the foundation of nearly every pencil we use today.
In the United States, Henry David Thoreau, who wrote Walden, helped refine American pencil production in the mid-1800s. He worked in his family’s pencil factory and devised a way to turn poor-quality graphite into a usable core using Conté’s method. Below, let’s talk about the three main types of pencils that use that graphite and the best occasion for choosing each type.
Wooden Pencils: Tactile and Enduring
Best for: Drawing, casual writing, drafting ideas, and having something pretty in your supplies case
Using a well-made wooden pencil is a tactile delight. The sound of graphite on paper and its unique scent make a wooden pencil an experience as much as a tool. If you’re looking for a pencil that feels as good as it performs, Blackwing is a standout brand. Their pencils have a cult following, and for good reason. Blackwing offers several core styles, each with a slightly different feel. These are the three I reach for most often:
Blackwing 602: Firm and smooth; these were a favorite of author John Steinbeck, and are nice for everyday handwriting.
Blackwing Pearl: The Pearl has a balanced softness. It’s excellent for general drawing or journaling.
Blackwing Matte: This is Blackwing’s darkest and softest option. Try it for sketching with expressive strokes.
For those who are interested in pointed pen calligraphy, you can try writing pencil calligraphy first! You can see this guide to get a detailed video tutorial and a free worksheet.
Pencil calligraphy offers an approachable introduction to pointed pen calligraphy.
Graphite Grades: A Palette of Grays
Best for: Tonal drawings, shaded sketches, and work that requires subtle variation in value
Pencils marked with “H”, “HB”, “B”, or “F” refer to the hardness of the graphite inside. These markings come from European traditions; and while there’s no global standard, most artists learn to “read” the scale over time. In general, it means:
H pencils (hard): These make clean, light marks. They’re useful for technical drawings or light sketches.
B pencils (black): The marks from this pencil are softer and darker. They’re great for shading and expressive work.
HB: This pencil offers a balanced middle ground, and it’s common for general writing.
F: Slightly firmer than HB, this pencil is especially good for handwriting.
Most graded graphite pencil sets go from 6H (very hard) to 8B (very soft). Using multiple grades in a single drawing gives you range, which would be like the equivalent of tonal layering in watercolor. Brands to explore include Staedtler Mars Lumograph (my personal favorite), Faber-Castell 9000, Derwent Graphic, and Koh-i-Noor 1500. A graded pencil can be an extremely powerful illustration tool! Follow along with me in the tutorial video below to learn how to shade a sphere using graded pencils:
(Love what you made or looking for critiques? TPK Premium members can post photos of their work to Discord! Look for the “Shade a Sphere in Pencil” thread under the #tpk-projects-and-tutorials channel.)
Mechanical Pencils: Consistency and Control
Best for: Journaling, layout sketching, note-taking, and detailed line work
Mechanical pencils have been around since 1822, but they didn’t become popular until the 20th century. During the 1940s and ’50s, refillable mechanical pencils gained traction among draftsmen, architects, and students, and we’ve loved them ever since. Unlike their wooden counterparts, mechanical pencils never change shape. Their line remains consistent, and there’s no need for sharpening. For making calligraphy guidelines or working in tight spaces, that kind of reliability is incredibly useful. You’ll find mechanical pencils in a range of lead sizes:
0.3mm – This is an ultra-fine lead that’s good for technical illustration or tiny handwriting.
0.5mm – This is a standard, well-balanced size for everyday use.
0.7mm and 0.9mm – These larger leads will give you a slightly softer feel, which is better for expressive sketching or notes.
Mechanical pencils are awesome for creating clean pencil drafts, like this whimsical family crest.
In the mechanical pencil world, brands like the Pentel GraphGear 1000 and the Rotring 600 are prized for their precision and weight. Some mechanical pencils even accept softer 2B or B leads, which offer a smoother, darker line that’s especially nice for sketching.
Specialty Pencils
For certain projects, graphite just will not do. In that case, a specialty pencil may be what you need:
White mechanical pencils: White pencils are incredibly useful for making guidelines on dark-colored paper. They’re a non-negotiable for anyone who wants to write or draw on dark paper!
Colored pencils: These are excellent for vibrant sketches, handmade cards, or flourished artwork. (I love them for adding an ombré effect to hand lettering.)
Charcoal or carbon pencils: These are darker and more textured than graphite. They’re nice for bold, dramatic drawings. In fact, I often add a bit of charcoal shading to my pencil drawings for extra contrast.
Pencils are pretty low-maintenance, but a few well-chosen accessories can make using them more enjoyable. Be sure to invest in sharpeners that create the perfect point and erasers that lift graphite cleanly, and you’ll be happy with your pencils for many years. Here’s what I recommend:
Sharpener: A good sharpener makes a massive difference. I mostly use a Blackwing pencil sharpener (affiliate link), but any long point sharpener works. For a slower, meditative pace, you can sharpen your pencil with a craft knife … just be careful!
Drafting brush: While you can sometimes get rid of eraser residue with a blow or by shaking the paper, a drafting brush (affiliate link) is your best bet. It might not be a traditional on-the-go tool, but it’s great for when you’re working at home.
Scrap piece of paper: Graphite has a tendency to smear, especially if you’re using a softer lead or working on smooth paper. To avoid smudging your work, keep a scrap piece of paper nearby and rest your hand on it as you draw or write.
The pencil was my entry point into illustration. I still think that nothing quite beats a contrast-filled pencil drawing, which is why it was important for me to teach you how to draw a sphere today. Once you’re ready to level up, try drawing other things, too! First, try drawing objects, like a birdie, a flower, or a plant.
These birdies, an envelope liner pattern in the Letter Writer’s Complete Resource, were originally drawn in pencil. I took inspiration from the birdies that adorn the lawn of the Nelson-Atkins Museum in Kansas City.
Next, try your hand at people. You might be surprised at how much you enjoy sketching loved ones! I typically work from photos, but if you’re feeling brave, try sketching figures from life.
I used pencil to draw this portrait of my college roommate. Later, I painted a few details with watercolor to add even more character.
When you’re making a pencil illustration, it’s important to remember that every good drawing starts with a good outline. Even more vitally, every object is comprised of shapes, which need to be shaded appropriately. Within a face, for example, you can think of the head as a sphere, the nose as a cone, and the neck as a cylinder.
It’s important to begin every pencil drawing with a light outline, whether you’re making a sphere or a face.
I hope this guide has inspired you to see your pencils in a new light. They’re humble tools with incredible range, and the best way to appreciate them is to put them to work. I highly recommend starting with today’s sphere tutorial! Make yourself a cup of tea, settle in with your sketchbook, and enjoy the process. After you’ve gotten a few spheres under your belt, I suspect you’ll be ready to tackle other subjects (and I hope you do)!
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