I am sure that there are a {very} small handful of calligraphers out there blessed with an uncanny ability to space correctly 99% of the time without the aid of a ruler. I am not one of them. No matter what type of calligraphy I am creating, I use some spacing method to ensure that my envelopes turn out perfect. Since it’s a service that my clients are paying for, I would feel uncomfortable not giving them my best work!
In today’s blog post, we are going to delve into the tedious world of calligraphy spacing. Calligraphy spacing takes up a considerable amount of time and is boring, but oh-so-necessary.
If I am addressing a large amount of envelopes, I make a little template. Basically, this template consists of two strips of paper that are as tall as my envelopes. I tape these strips of paper to my desk, ensuring an envelope fits snugly between them, then I make marks on them to draw my lines.
{The little silver pieces were for some escort cards I recently created.}
Next, I place an envelope in between the two pieces of paper.
I then use a ruler and a pencil {I never press very hard!} to connect the marks on the left paper strip template to the marks on the right paper strip template. Notice I am connecting the pencil marks, not the ones I made in pen {which were for a different calligraphy style}.
Next, I use my ruler to make a mark in the center of the envelope.
The mark doesn’t need to be exactly straight; you just need to have a good idea, give or take a couple of millimeters, where the center is.
Next, I write out my address in pencil. I write a quick version of what I’ll be making with my calligraphy pen. I then measure how long each line {e.g. “Baker Bugbee”} is; and based on that, I draw guidelines that dictate where the actual calligraphy needs to be. For example, “Baker Bugbee” is 3 7/8″. I divide 3 7/8″ by 2; which is just shy of two inches. Dually, I need to make one mark two inches in front of the vertical center guideline; and one two inches behind it.
Using my guidelines, I was able to make a nice, centered envelope. Go figure, I actually had the spacing for the next three lines correct {and this rarely happens}. “Baker Bugbee” ended up a little shorter than I expected, so I added a bit of a flourish to the last “e” to reach the second guideline. This envelope was made in beautiful Finetec Arabic Gold.
After your ink has dried — which generally is pretty fast, depending on your ink — you’ll want to erase the pencil lines. I always use Staedtler Mars Plastic erasers. Getting the eraser excess off is made easy when you use a dusting brush like the one in the photo below. It’s a lot more effective than using your hand.
Once you’ve brushed off the eraser bits, you’re finished!
There is another trick that I use for calligraphy spacing, as well. I type an address out, centered in my Word program {or gmail}, so I can see how the spacing is in a standard font {e.g. Arial, Helvetica, Times}. I only write out the first line of the address, go over it with calligraphy ink, then use my electronic guideline to figure out where to start the next line. For example:
Mr. John Smith 20 Rain Lane Houston, Texas 12345Based off of that example, I will write “Mr. John Smith”, make sure it is centered; then I will start my “2” on the next line, in the middle of where my “M” is on the top line. Then I know that “Houston, Texas” is a very tiny bit longer than “Mr. John Smith”; so I will start my “H” jut a little bit before where the “M” is on the top line. This method isn’t as foolproof as meticulous measurement and writing out the address beforehand, but I have a high success rate with it!
Virtually every calligraphy style I offer is measured in some way; and I price, essentially, based on how much measuring I will have to do. Take this style, for example:
It is meticulously measured and centered; and dually takes a considerable amount of time to make. We’re talking up to 15 minutes for a 6-line envelope.
This style, on the other hand, doesn’t require a lot of measuring. It’s light and free enough that I can adjust the letters and their direction to achieve the centered effect that I am shooting for in every envelope. Oftentimes I do still write out the first line of the address in pencil to be sure I’ve got a good starting point.
I am always confused when I see people selling calligraphy for very cheap {under $2.00 per envelope} on Etsy. Either they’ve got a system down that I am not privy to {entirely possible}; or they don’t mind a very paltry hourly rate. My advice is if you want to offer envelope calligraphy as a service, charge a price that is fair to you as well as the client. Time yourself making an average envelope. Remember all the steps you will need to go through: measuring, drawing guidelines, creating your calligraphy, erasing guidelines — and, of course, the inevitable fact that you will mess up on a couple of envelopes in some way {be it ink spatter, or writing “Avenue” rather than “Street”}.
What it all boils down to is this: you will develop your own style, and your own system for calligraphy spacing. This is the calligraphy spacing system that works for me, and while it’s tedious, it renders nice results. If you have another system, by all means, please share! I would love to be told that there’s a faster way!
On another note, I am writing so late this evening because we had the busiest day shopping. We were in hot pursuit of a desk for Hernán {which we did find!}, and in the course of the search, I found a large tufted bulletin board. Of course, we stuck it in the office, and I designated it as my “wall of work”. It’s saving quite a few pieces from being tucked away in a binder or thrown into the recycling. I’ve left some space so I can add more to it!
I hope this blog post makes at least a little bit of sense and helps you to develop your calligraphy spacing “groove”! If I have left anything out, or you have any other questions, feel free to comment. I am always happy to help! Thanks for reading and enjoy the rest of your weekend!
April 30th Update:
After some great comments from readers {I absolutely adore you guys!}, I came up with an easier way to consistently space my envelopes. Kathleen and Rodger suggested a light box, so I made a DIY light box using our glass desk and a $3.00 lamp from goodwill. The lamp shines through the glass through the bottom; and a template {with measured lines} tucked inside the envelope becomes visible when the light shines through it. It’s saved me a considerable amount of time!
Kathleen also suggested a phantom liner, which I think would be a wonderful alternative to a light box.
Thanks to Kathleen and Rodger for your input! If any other readers have input, please share them!
I just thought of an interesting idea, all those index cards the ones with all the tiny lines, could be used the same way with a light box…that way you don’t have to draw them on or remeasure…you just cut up one of the index cards to fit inside the envelope and voila…just draw it out with guidelines and everything especially if the lines are like 1/4′ apart then you could even do the freehand/bouncy script thing with it without making new guidelines…
That’s a great idea — a lot less work! 🙂
Hey, architecture student post collegiate grad here. But have you ever tried a parallel bar. They’re what architects used to use (before computers) and students still use to draw straight lines. It’s pretty much a table with a bar hooked up to cables that works like a pulley system to keep the bar horizontally parallel when you move it up and down. Then all you need are squares (triangles) to make your vertical lines. It’s easier to watch a video of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-pM8oulX-zo Only problem is that they stay close to the table. A thick envelope might be hard to deal with. But hey, if you set up a template to the left, it’ll make quick work of those lines.
That’s true — could be a really good solution! I usually defer to a rolling ruler (a.k.a. parallel glider) or a light box now!
Love your blog! I was wondering what the item in image 3 that has 6 circular containers is?
That’s one of my favorite things ever! The Finetec Golds palette. 🙂 You can read about it — and how to use it for calligraphy — in this blog post!
I know this is a little off-topic but I recently started practicing pointed pen calligraphy and have become quickly obsessed with it. I am getting married in 8 months and I am going to be creating my own invites as well as addressing my invitations with hopes of eventually also marketing to other brides in my area. I was wondering what your preference is for envelopes. I’ve been looking on Paper Source at all the different types of envelopes and I’m not sure which would be best for ink! Any insight would be appreciated!
Ahhhhhh, just found your recent post on envelopes. ooops!
No problem! I hope that it gave you some valuable info! 🙂
Oooh. I just saw this post now. brilliant idea! It’s really time-saving! I use a T square but this one is easier. I also loved the DIY lightbox. haha. Lightboxes are expensive. Gotta try this!
DIY light boxes are the best! Super-effective and money-saving. 🙂
Hi All,
Firstly i would like to that you for creating this blog because its very helpful.. i just started doing Gurmukhi Calligraphy (Calligraphy in Punjabi language). I am from New Delhi (India). i have few questions and request you to please guide me and help in solving them..
1. Is creating lines with pencile is important ? If it is then what if we work on a large area, i mean big chart size papers ?
2. I want to write on dark paper with Golden and Silver ink. i have Speadball dip pen set with (C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, C5 & C6) Nibs. please suggest me which is the best ink (Golden and Silver) to use and freom where i can get it.
Thanks in advance. Stay Blessed and keep on doing good work.
Regards,
Amardeep Singh
+91-9899150529
Hi Amardeep!
I create guidelines even when working on very large sizes of papers. However, Kaitlin Style calligraphy doesn’t require guidelines, so you might consider using that style on larger pieces. 🙂
For your second question, I believe you’ll find this blog post over using metallic inks helpful! I use the Finetec palette, which is a dream come true, especially when working on dark papers.
I hope this helps; let me know if you have any further questions!
superb! absolutely thanks for sharing those tips so detailed n_n your work is as much enchanting and beatiful as your eys 😉 , best regards
Thanks very much, Fermin!
I love the conversation going on here. The lightbox idea is brilliant! I recently had some “duh” moments with my printmaking. But the first thing about your article that struck me is what you said about calligraphers offering their work at rock bottom prices. I am a book binder, and I see leather books on Etsy for paltry amounts. I can’t even see how they cover their materials cost. Unless they’re using pretty crappy materials. I think people do everyone a disservice by underpricing their work.
Man, isn’t that the truth? I fully acknowledge that my calligraphy is more expensive than most; but even with my current price pointing, it takes me so long to create that I often do come out with an hourly rate that is significantly under what I generally charge for custom design/illustration work {$70/hour}. For me, creating calligraphy is a true labor of love, usually made to add the icing on the cake to a suite that I’ve designed. So, I’m with you: it is mind-boggling to see people charging so very little for their time — and, in your case — materials. It makes you wonder: “How? Why??” But, on the flip side, I think it’s hard for artisans to have the courage to charge what they need to. It took a long time for me to stop being timid when it came to pricing!
And, yes, “duh” moments happen ALL the time with me. I think subconsciously I like making things harder than they should be: “no pain, no gain”! I am slowly learning that that mantra really doesn’t have to apply to a lot of situations. 🙂
Hi Lindsey,
Thanks for blogging about your calligraphy! I am an enthusiast and haven’t given much practice to my craft, more of a long-time fan and beginner/experimenter. I hope someday I can make something this beautiful by just winging it! Thanks for your notes on spacing, too. I will use this method in my next calligraphy adventure!
I think the best way to master calligraphy is to just wing it! “Someday” will come a lot sooner than you think. 😉
Thank you for this post on spacing! I am doing calligraphy on the envelopes for my nephew’s wedding. She chose navy blue envelopes, and white ink. The light table idea does not work in this situation, so I was glad to see that you used pencil, and your arrangement of strips of paper along the sides to mark the guidelines.
Yep — sometimes you’ve just got to measure! When I measure, my process is this:
1. Measure out 10 envelopes at a time.
2. Write the 10 addresses.
3. Erase the 10 addresses, very closely checking for spelling errors.
4. Setting the 10 addresses aside in alphabetical order; then starting on the next 10.
… and so on and so forth!
I like that in erasing, I also have a chance to closely proofread. For dark envelopes, I’d recommend testing out the pencil and erasing first, just to make sure the eraser doesn’t leave lighter smudges. If it does, you could always invest in a phantom liner. I’ve never used one, but it sounds like it would work wonderfully if pencil and eraser won’t work for your project. 🙂
Like Kathleen, I use a light box (Artograph) too. When using a light box, it is very helpful to mask off the areas that you don’t need to keep the glare from shining in your eyes. BUT, don’t throw your pencil and rulers away just yet!! When you are addressing envelopes that are of a really heavy bond, it can be difficult to see the lines through the envelope, at least for my tired old eyes. Same is true if you are using dark envelopes and white ink. I also use a rolling ruler with an Ames Lettering Guide, or simply mark my lines on the envelope and use the rolling ruler.
On another note, I don’t think you have many issues with inconsistent letter angles. Your calligraphy really is beautiful!
Your “engineering side” would be very proud of me, Rodger; I figured out how to shine a light up through Hernán’s glass desk yesterday, and it works wonderfully! I don’t think it would work through dark envelopes, though, as you point out! For single envelopes {e.g. personal correspondence}, I’ll probably still just do pencil lines — but for large orders, I am definitely going to make and use a template! If we ever get rid of the glass desk, I’ll spring for an Artograph, no question.
Thank you for the compliment on my calligraphy, but the admiration is mutual, let me assure you! And: you’ve opened me up to a whole new nib world with the Nikko. I ordered two more of the Nikko G nib yesterday; it really is a fantastic nib, particularly when paired with your oblique holder!
Hi LIndsey!
I recently started doing calligraphy myself, and I have discovered a couple of methods/tools that could help you to complete your envelopes faster – you can avoid doing the pencil lines altogether if you want!
What I like to do is use a lightbox and a guide sheet that is cut to my envelope’s size. I simply slide the sheet into the envelope, place it on my lightbox, and then I can see my lines clear as day!
Another tool that I’ve seen around is the phantom liner – it’s basically a mini projector that reflects your guidelines onto your sheet for you! I am going to invest in this soon 🙂
http://www.paperinkarts.com/phn100.html
I really cannot tell you how many hundreds — actually, thousands — of envelopes I have trudged through using a ruler and pencil. You would think at some point I would have thought “Hey, lightbox,” or “Hey, maybe there’s a tool that will make this easier for me.” This is a very welcome “duh” moment! I am sooo glad you commented!
I have a very large glass desk, so with a little experimenting this morning I have realized I can shine a light under the desk and, using your guide sheet trick, my ruler and pencil days with large envelope orders are gone. If I get tired of that method or we get rid of the desk, the phantom liner is a great value (and I LOVE Paper & Ink arts). If you do purchase it, please let me know what you think!
I am serious: you’ve just revolutionized my world. You completely rock. THANK YOU!
I’m glad I could help you out!
Full disclosure: I stumbled upon your blog right before I took the plunge into learning the pointed pen about 2 months ago. Something about reading your blog posts about calligraphy made me think : hey! I CAN do this, I don’t need to be scared at all!
I’ve been following your page ever since 🙂
Well, I, for one, am very glad that you’re following the blog — you have officially benefited me as much {or more!} than I have benefited you. I still have no idea why I never thought: “Hey, there’s a more efficient way to do this.” I guess sometimes we get set in our patterns and that’s that! I spent time yesterday working with my DIY light box {which I will update this post with}; and it was so wonderful to be able to cut out the measuring step! I’m a new woman.
And I know what you mean about starting off a little intimidated … I was the same way. It took me a while to realize that as long as the final result pleases you, it doesn’t really matter whether it’s pretty in a conventional sense or if you made it using traditional techniques. I think the calligraphy as shown on your Facebook page is fantastic, and I’m glad that you have Molly Suber Thorpe’s book — which is, as you know, a wonderful source of inspiration. I’m loving your designs and business, and I’m following you to see more blog posts. One thing I would be interested in learning is how you did the edges of the Sally’s Baking Addiction cards; I’m always too afraid of ink bleeds to to do that, and it would make a cool post!
Thanks again!!
Beautiful calligraphy, Lindsey! I notice that you don’t use any slant lines in your layout. Do you ever have problems with inconstant letter angles? Good idea to use a bit of flourish to center words to the eye!
Hi Rodger!
I’m sure I do have problems with inconstant letter angles … but I never notice any. 😉 The styles I use are relatively modern, so I suppose I haven’t used slant lines. If I ever use more Edwardian styles, I probably will. I wish I were more traditional when it came to calligraphy; but I “wing it”!
What a fascinating post Lindsay. I had not really thought about how much time it might take to do each envelope…nor that different styles would alter the outcome so much.
Nan
It really is very time-consuming! I have logged many, many hours on Netflix while creating envelopes. To be honest, I prefer designing invitations to creating envelope calligraphy {because it’s easy to modify spacing of calligraphy and graphics digitally!}; but it’s a good feeling to finish a beautiful envelope calligraphy job — especially if it matches an invitation I have designed. Thanks for reading about my tedious method! 🙂
Hi, Thank you for this measuring information on centering my work. Now I know where to begin! Now, practice begins! Cathy
Hopefully it helps a bit! You’ll develop your own method, I’m sure — but this will give you a starting point!